Interview With A Beauty Therapist About Acne & Natural Skin Care

You’ve probably heard me talk about Bel a lot, that’s because she gives such great advice. Bel is a beauty therapist in Melbourne (Australia) and head therapist and founder of Pure Citta. Bel is trained in Aromatherapy, Beauty and Remedial Massage - so if you’re in Melbourne you definitely need to check Pure Citta out for a massage and some beauty treatments.

Bel was kind enough to answer a few skin care and acne questions for the blog. I learnt a lot from her answers, and I’m sure you will too

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Why is it important to use natural skin care when treating acne?

Unfortunately, the majority of skin care products on the market consist largely if not solely, on man made synthetic chemicals such as mineral oil and other highly processed and contaminated ingredients. While the shift towards natural and organic skin care may appear to many to be over the top hype or merely a trend in the consumer market, its popularity is growing for a reason - medical support. Constant tests and research is being done on current popular ingredients and preservatives, with huge amounts of evidence coming up to support the claims that petrochemicals cause much more damage to the skin, body, wellbeing and the environment, than they do good.

One third of all personal care products contain at least one ingredient that has been classified as a possible human carcinogen (cancer causing substance). The use of such ingredients has a hugely detrimental effect on the skin and its natural protective barrier. As it tries to cope with these foreign substances, the skins immune system weakens and becomes more susceptible to damage by infection, bacteria (such as in Acne), free radicals, sensitivities, and other conditions which can not only accelerate the skins aging process but also affect the health and state of our wellbeing. Along with these reasons of why to avoid synthetic chemical based skin care, is the evidence on the benefits of utilizing natures power. The abundance of beneficial ingredients that Mother Nature supplies us with is endless, and can be used to treat a variety of conditions and problems much more safely than their chemical counterparts. Plants and minerals have been in use for thousands of years both internally and topically, for their medicinal therapeutic benefits, and the results can be outstanding.

What should acne sufferers look for in a natural skin care product?

There are a few key ingredients that are beneficial for acne sufferers, and definitely worth looking out for. One of these, and my favorite, is White Willow Bark. This is the only natural form of Beta Hydroxy Acid known to man, and contains Salicylic acid (the key ingredient in Aspirin). It is extremely beneficial in reducing congestion and clogged pores – key factors in the formation of acne. It works mainly as an exfoliant, by helping breakdown the epidermis (the outer layer of the skin), and allowing for the growth of new fresh skin cells, and is also an anti-bacterial, helping to heal already formed breakouts. Most pharmaceutical skin care products which contain this ingredient, utilize the derived salicylic acid, as opposed to extracts of the entire White Willow Tree. The strength at which the acid is chemically extracted and used is so, that it usually causes sensitivities and irritation. Products that utilize the whole plant retain its other benefits such as its anti-inflammatory properties, which reduce the chance of such reactions.

Other great ingredients include Vitamin A (the natural retinoid – get the benefits of Retin-A without all the horrible side effects), Zinc (a healing, soothing mineral straight from the earth), Neem oil (a fantastic antibacterial oil used in Indian Ayurvedic Medicine). I would be here for ever if I were to list all the great ingredients out there that are beneficial in the treatment and control of acne, but needless to say there is no shortage. Aside from a product containing all these great ingredients, it’s important to look for what they DON’T have.

It’s a futile cycle to spend tons of money on a product that contains a multitude of active natural and organic ingredients, when the rest of it is made up of harmful chemical additives. Not only do these break down the structure of, and usually therefore the benefit of these natural ingredients, but they themselves can cause harm and exacerbate conditions such as Acne. Specific ingredients to avoid include artificial preservatives such as alcohol (many natural skin care companies will claim the safety of using alcohol, however many studies clearly show that it can be harmful and drying to the skin even in low doses, see - http://rosacea.iinet.net.au/hl/m9810.html), Parabens and petroleum by products including mineral oil (very drying).

It can also be a hard task differentiating between those products which are honestly natural and those that are merely claiming to be so for publicity sake. The lake of regulations in the cosmetic industry means that manufacturers can easily get away with misleading consumers who think they are using a safe product. One such example is Coconut oil. Coconut is an extremely valuable ingredient in the management and treatment of acne, due to it’s anti-bacterial properties along with it’s ability to promote cell renewal and regeneration. These benefits are easily obtained when using it in its natural state, either alone, or added to a cream / gel base. However most skin care ranges use an extract of Coconut called Cocamide-DEA, as it is significantly cheaper in the manufacturing process. It may well be from coconut oil, but a synthetic chemical called ‘diethanolamine’ is used in the extraction process. This agent is a known carcinogen. Manufacturers commonly use the words ‘natural’ and ‘contains natural plant extracts’ on their packaging and advertising material when in fact processes and ingredients such as that previously mentioned have been used, reducing any benefits initially existing from the plant in it’s pure form, and adding the potential to cause harm instead of good.

Again the list goes on. I highly recommend to anyone, not just those suffering with Acne (though it is particularly beneficial to avoid harsh and harmful chemicals in conditions such as this) to get your hands on a little book by Bill Statham called ‘The Chemical Maze’. It can be a difficult task to try and remember all the nasty things to avoid, because unfortunately there’s a lot of them out there, and this book helps make life a LOT easier.

For sufferers of active acne, where there are open or irritated pustules, or those with cystic acne, it is also important to avoid harsh scrubs. While it is tempting to want to get in there and scrub away all the dead skin cells and blackheads, such actions and products can be too abrasive and tear the skin, further aggravating breakouts, and can also spread existing bacteria causing more pimples. While many ‘bead’ exfoliating products are aimed at acne sufferers, they are only suitable for those with thicker stronger skins, and should be avoided by those who are suffering from inflamed, red, pimples. Exfoliating products that contain ingredients such as White Willow Bark (above) are much more suitable and effective.

What is the best way to get rid of blackheads and whiteheads? What if there are a lot of them?

Blackheads and whiteheads, also known as comedones, can take time and patience to heal. For this reason it’s necessary to understand what factors have a role in the development of them, and therefore what lifestyle / dietary / emotional changes may be necessary. With an abundance of recommended treatments for acne, it can often be overwhelming to know where to start. However a general rule of thumb, that is accepted and supported by most skin care and medical professionals, is to turn your focus internally.

A broad range of potential dangers including; nutritional deficiencies, a diet high in saturated fats, animal products, processed, hot and spicy foods, certain prescription and over the counter drugs, environmental factors such as industrial pollution, exhaust fumes, cigarette smoke, sun exposure and synthetic chemicals can all dramatically impact the state of the body and skins immune barrier and repair system. This in turn effects the skins ability to renew and remain clear and healthy.

When looking at a treatment for a case of comedones, one of the first things to do is move to a healthy diet and cut out refined sugars and heavy, oily foods that are hard to digest. By stressing the bodies’ digestive system, such foods then impact on immune functions and lower our ability to ward of infection and bacteria. This state of lowered immunity leaves the skin susceptible to the spread of further breakouts, as well as making it much harder to repair existing damage and infection. You can help assist the healing process by eating whole-foods including plenty of fresh vegetables and fruits, adequate amounts of water, and ensuring to get appropriate levels of essential vitamins, minerals, protein and iron in the diet. Beneficial internal supplements include Neem, sandalwood, turmeric, garlic, zinc, magnesium and vitamin C.

Prevention is the best line of treatment when it comes to acne, or any health conditions for that matter. An important factor here, is not allowing dead skin cells to build up on your skin. You can do this by regularly exfoliating, as well as through the use of a clay based mask at least once a week. This prevents the hair follicles becoming clogged, which then leads to the formation of blackheads. Also always ensure to keep the skin well hydrated, both through a moisturising cream or oil and internally by drinking plenty of the good stuff – H20.

The temptation to squeeze comedones can be great, and often times too much to ignore. However, it is extremely important to treat your skin gently so as not to cause further damage. Done incorrectly, extractions can move the pus and infection back into the epidermis where it will later come up through a different hair follicle larger and more persistent than the first time, and also cause severe and lasting scaring. This is why you will often see a large pimple come up right near one you thought you remove a day or so earlier. A facial done by a professional beauty therapist is highly recommended, especially in cases of persistent or deep set acne or comedones. Along with the appropriate removal techniques, your therapist will usually use machines such as a steamer and high frequency, which can have fantastic effects on the skin. However when this is not possible, the following guidelines are recommended.

1. Before you start, both your skin and hands must be thoroughly cleansed. Do so with a gentle cream cleanser (never soap which alters the Ph levels and encourages the growth of bacteria) or gentle exfoliating cleanser.
2. Help loosen the pores by giving your face a mini steam for 5 – 10 mins (fill a bowel with boiling water, add a couple of drops of essential oil if you wish such as chamomile or lavender, and lean your face over the bowel with a towel covering your head).
3. Apply an exfoliating mask, or if you don’t have one, mash up some fresh strawberries with oatmeal and apply the paste evenly over face, till dry. Remove with warm water.
4. With the tips of your fingers, gently press in either side of the comedone and move in a slow rocking motion. If it does not come out immediately don’t push it, it means it’s not ready. Avoid using your nails.
5. Apply a natural spot treatment containing tea trea oil or similar anti-bacterial ingredients, or apply a small amount of fresh lemon juice to the area.
6. Moisturize with a light aloe vera based gel.

If you are suffering from breakouts over a large area, don’t go picking and squeezing the entire surface. If you must squeeze at all, then go for the larger ones which look ready to be released, but for the rest treat them gently and encourage them to heal. Swabbing the area with a mixture of lemon juice and a tiny amount of fresh garlic helps ward of the bacteria, while a mask with cucumber and tomato will help soothe inflammation and reduce redness.

Do you know of any good treatments for acne scars?

One of the best treatments for acne scaring is the application of pure Rosehip Oil. This is not recommended for skins that have active acne (pustules or comedones) as it can be too rich however it’s fantastic at promoting healing and reducing the appearance of scars and pigmentation.

For those with current active acne, products which contain collagen boosting ingredients are the best option, as they encourage the cells to regenerate and rebuild growth. A great natural source of this is marine collagen, which comes marine plants, and increases collagen and elastin fibres. Regular massage of the skin, such as is done in a facial, also helps encourage this production and can improve scaring over large areas.

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Bel also has a great line of natural skin care products which you can buy directly from her website.

If you have any questions for Bel about acne and skin care, she’s always happy to answer, so write a comment in the box below!

Fran Kerr is the founding editor of High on Health. To cure your acne, sign up to Fran's FREE acne cure mini-course or download her latest how to guide, Eat Away Your Acne.

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